I haven't heard of anyone performing this on the DMG so I thought I'd share. I found I get around 12dB extra output which is perfect for my desk's line inputs, it's also less noisy, and has the added bonus of being hum-free when using the original Nintendo PSU.
Hear the difference:
PSU
batteries
As with the GBC prosound mod, the mod involves wiring a jack socket off the volume pot pins. The connections are a little different, from top to bottom as follows:
1 - before pot, R
2 - before pot, L
3 - after pot, L -----> to jack L (tip)
4 - after pot, R -----> to jack R (ring)
5 - ground -----------> to jack ground (sleeve)
Update - Use headphone socket as prosound output
I found it is possible to use the existing headphone socket as the prosound output and preserve the inbuilt speaker and its mute function. This is ideal if you do not want to fit a new socket to the Gameboy. I prefer this given the comfortable location of the socket, although the prosound output isn't strong enough to drive headphones properly.
For this version of the mod I've wired the L and R off the pot to corresponding pins on the jack socket, and desoldered the first two wires (of four) that connect the headphone jack pcb to the main pcb. The third wire is ground, and the fourth is from the speaker switch (part of the headphone socket), which is required for the speaker to work. Unfortunately by using this ground I get some hum with a PSU.
Update - improved noise version of headphone socket mod
It's possible to get an less noisy signal whilst still using the headphone output mod and retain speaker function. Note that if you have done the original version of this mod (wiring L, R and GND to a seperate jack socket) the noise levels should be the same as both versions use the cleaner GND off the pot.
For this version, desolder all but the fourth wire connecting the main pcb to the headphone jack pcb, then connect L, R and GND to pins 1-3 on the headphone jack pcb.
Here's a clearer picture of the mod than the ones I previously uploaded to flickr. ![]()
Last edited by nanogrrrl (August 01, 2007 12:38 pm)
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You can also perform the Prosound mod on the Gameboy Color, Pocket and Light models, although the wiring is a little different.
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dmg means normal gameboy?
right so for this mod i just unsloder them 2 wires
and connect the 2 wires acroos where you have shown?
whcih end of the 1 and 2 needs desoldering?
the ones that you have shown?
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Lameboy has a tutorial up on how to do this.
I bought some Stereo phono jacks just for this, but I don't know how to wire it. I'd like to put one in the same place as the original, but I don't know how to get the original headphone jack off so I can put this new one in. I have a feeling it would damage it as well due to that audio PCB being necessary.
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What kind did you buy, jack or phono?
The headphone pcb is really only necessary if you want to keep the internal speaker and/or have an output suitable for headphones, otherwise you can get L, R and GND directly off the pot. I didn't notice any DC offset issues with this but you could always wire a couple of caps into the signal path if you want.
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It says 3.5mm 3-conductor (stereo) Phone Jack.
Here is a lame-ass diagram I drew in Paint, it was from the back of the box. I just take the wires that are labeled as 1, 2, and 3 from the diagram on Lameboy's site/your pics and solder them to this? I'm not really sure.
Last edited by Raz1r (July 16, 2007 7:28 pm)
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There are five pins on the volume pot, you want the bottom three pins ( I only labeled 3 and 4). Connect the third (L) to pin 2 on your headphone socket, the fourth (R) to pin 3 and the fifth (GND) to pin 1.
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I have some decently labeled pix of the wiring.. check
'em out. hope it helps... coming soon... the video version.. see just how
fast/easy this mod really is..
http://lowgain-audio.com/GBclassicmod.htm
http://lowgain-audio.com/GBCmod.htm
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Thanks Nanogrrrl. And Lameboy for the pics. Those helped. I got one of my four DMGs Prosound'd now thanks to you guys.
Just BTW, have you guys ever encountered a DMG with Phillips-head screws? The one I just modded had Phillips, that was the only one I've been able to get into. My other 3 DMGs are all triwing screws. I just thought that was kind of weird.
Next I'll try one of those female 1/4"/TRS jacks. That looks pretty cool.
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can anyone post examples of music where they are normalized to equal volumes?
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Herbert Weixelbaum included a pro-sound modded DMG-01 on his comparison page. I don't know whether his mod is the same as the one described in this thread, but from the description it sounds like the results were similar.
http://www.herbertweixelbaum.com/comparison.htm
Last edited by Bit Shifter (July 24, 2007 6:00 pm)
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Nanogrrrl has a DMG sound comparison on this site. And Herbert's Comparison page is the best out there right now.
Oh yeah, and since I don't need the speaker, would it be possible to wire an LED in its place? I've always wanted to do that. I think I might need to sand down a little bit of the inside so I can get more light.
Will that affect my sound though? I don't really want to do it if it's gonna sound really bad.
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Bit Shifter wrote:
I don't know whether his mod is the same as the one described in this thread, but from the description it sounds like the results were similar.
Herbert's mod is slightly different in that as with Lameboy he wired L and R off the pot to pins 1 and 2 on the headphone pcb instead of wiring directly to the jack socket pins.
I found no difference doing it this way to my ears, although I suspected some signal loss might occur. Waveform analysis in Cool Edit Pro showed approx 0.5dB signal attenuation if connecting via the caps instead of directly to the jack pins. Analysis also showed negligible differences in DC offset; I think the signal is already DC-coupled via 1uF caps directly after the audio out pins on the CPU.
I hadn't looked at his pic that carefully until now. Herbert also wired GND off the pot to pin 3 on the headphone pcb in place of the GND coming from the main pcb, leaving pin 4 connected. I uploaded a pic as a guide.
I mentioned that the GND was cleaner off the pot but having just tried it this way I think it's better than the trailing jack socket (unless you want to keep the headphone output, if you find the prosound doesn't drive them as well) as it has the advantage of retaining speaker function. I like that little speaker!
Herbert said the prosound mod in his comparison sounded noisier than the mp3s I uploaded here, although in my own comparisons I found the noise to be better on versions that took GND off the pot, so it looks like noise levels might vary.
Raz1r wrote:
Oh yeah, and since I don't need the speaker, would it be possible to wire an LED in its place? I've always wanted to do that. I think I might need to sand down a little bit of the inside so I can get more light.
Sure, just desolder it from the pcb. The speaker is quite big so you could do alot with the space. You could use some hot glue or sand down a piece of a cd case or similar to diffuse the light so it looks more like a glow.
If the speaker switching is still enabled you might want to solder a 10 ohm resistor in its place just so the output stage has a load in case you ever want to revert the mod. The prosound output gets the signal before the DMG-AMP IC so it's unlikely it will affect the sound.
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When you say "original Nintendo PSU" you mean the battery pack that nintendo made for the DMG? that you can't use while plugged in? Or is there another psu I don't know about...
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I mean the mains power supply, not the rechargeable battery pack.
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nanogrrrl wrote:
If the speaker switching is still enabled you might want to solder a 10 ohm resistor in its place just so the output stage has a load in case you ever want to revert the mod. The prosound output gets the signal before the DMG-AMP IC so it's unlikely it will affect the sound.
Wait...you mean PCB -> resistor -> LED?
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hmmm i'd like to do the mod but keep the internal speaker AND the original plug (since i always use headphones when i'm making music) except if there is a way to use the pro-mod plug for headphones in which case I'll just replace the original plug...
Is that possible? and if yes, erm, what's the way of doing that?
thnx
/acro
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acrocosm wrote:
hmmm i'd like to do the mod but keep the internal speaker AND the original plug (since i always use headphones when i'm making music) except if there is a way to use the pro-mod plug for headphones in which case I'll just replace the original plug...
Is that possible? and if yes, erm, what's the way of doing that?
thnx
/acro
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wicked ^^
thnx herr
::waiting patiently for the tut::
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nonfinite wrote:
nanogrrrl wrote:
If the speaker switching is still enabled you might want to solder a 10 ohm resistor in its place just so the output stage has a load in case you ever want to revert the mod. The prosound output gets the signal before the DMG-AMP IC so it's unlikely it will affect the sound.
Wait...you mean PCB -> resistor -> LED?
Could you clarify what you mean? Forget what I said above about adding a load resistor in place of the speaker, it's probably overkill.
It is possible to connect an led directly to the speaker terminals, but the current is so low on the gameboy it will not light. I have added leds to speaker pins on circuit-bent toys so that the led lights in time with the sounds.
acrocosm wrote:
hmmm i'd like to do the mod but keep the internal speaker AND the original plug (since i always use headphones when i'm making music) except if there is a way to use the pro-mod plug for headphones in which case I'll just replace the original plug...
Is that possible? and if yes, erm, what's the way of doing that?
Just fit a second jack socket wired directly off the volume pot pins. The hard part is fitting the socket once you find one small enough. Initially I had a trailing jack socket. Maplin used to do a really small profile chassis-mount socket but have stopped selling them now. I never use headphones unless tracking vocals but I can see the advantage of having both on the gameboy.
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screw maplin they buy miriads of components for their miriad stores and yet they have double prices (at least) that other sellers. f**king fat belly corps ¬_¬
thnx for the info though ^^ i'll try it during the weekend
Last edited by acrocosm (August 09, 2007 7:01 pm)
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ok completely ignorant electronics noob question:
i'm doing the mod atm. i just opened a hole to fit the socket. it's this one. which pin is L and which one is R and ground? I would thought the long one is ground, is it? or is it just for screwing it to whatever? also does it matter if i solder L on the pcb to R on the socket?
and based on my last question, one is L one is R anyway (in general not for the mod specificaly). What it the point of knowing which one is which??
thnx
sry if my questions are ridiculus but i know nothing at all about that kind of stuff. i just have surgeon hands and i'm good at crafts ^^
.
edit: nvm i figured things out and i did it successfully ^^
Last edited by acrocosm (September 15, 2007 10:55 am)
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Has anybody figured out how AnimalStyle did his? I'm guessing he just took the other capacitor and wired it to a spot behind the speaker.
I've seen nonfi use the same type of things on his gameboys that he sold. Is it the same mod or am I reading into this all wrong?
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AnimalStyle? nonfinite? what did/do they do? i did what nanogrrl suggested me. i trust her you can't go wrong with hed advice ^^
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I'll try to add the extra jack mod to my pro mod page..
hopefully this weekend. but no promises.
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well, with nanogrrl's pic the only hard thing is to figure out which pin on the jack is r,l,g
Also I don't remember who said that but someone stated she/he (i think it was nanogrrl again) was using old IDE cables. Great idea, it works perfectly well
If you don't mind I'll insist on an answer of what is the purpose of knowing which is left and which is right on speakers, headphones etc? Is it merely for referencing purposes like "this is called a chair", "that is called a cup"?
Yeah it is as stupid as it sounds but I'm seriously curious to know because I remember me child and having friends, sis, etc teasing me if I was wearing the headphones "the wrong way" ^_^
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Well when you assign an instrument output to L you would think that you would like for it to go to the LEFT side rather than the RIGHT side.. but if you can live with it being "out of phase" then it doesn't really matter.
Using old ribbon cable from a computer or something works really well short of two things... if you're a beginner (at cutting, stripping, tinning wires), it can be difficult to work with. 24Gage sire works well..
the other downfall is that it's not shielded. in most cases it wont matter but on the rare case , you could pick up some RF, hum, or what ever.
if you need some better pictures or another reference... http://lowgain-audio.com/GBclassicmod.htm
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XIONG wrote:
Very great~!
Keep up the great work~!
Yes!
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Thanx nanogrrrl! l've just done this prosound mod, and my DMG sounds a bit better. cheers)
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i did this mod just a few minutes ago, and the headphone jack still seems usable (though not as loud). Did I do it wrong? Also, I noticed that when i turn the volume knob all the way up, it pans the sound a little higher to the left. Anyone have any ideas why this might be?
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Kurisu Bearcub wrote:
i did this mod just a few minutes ago, and the headphone jack still seems usable (though not as loud). Did I do it wrong? Also, I noticed that when i turn the volume knob all the way up, it pans the sound a little higher to the left. Anyone have any ideas why this might be?
The prosound out does work softly with headphones. It's loud enough to use if you're not on the subway or something.
As for the volume knob messing with the output, I've had that happen with two different DMGs. It's just a wonky volume knob, not a result of your prosound mod. It probably does that for the headphone out as well. If someone knows how to fix that I'd be interested as well.
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Kurisu Bearcub wrote:
Also, I noticed that when i turn the volume knob all the way up, it pans the sound a little higher to the left. Anyone have any ideas why this might be?
That could be caused by a short around the volume pot, if you accidentally connect two of the vol-pot points you shouldn't, it does funny things like that ... (or, as stated above, it could be a wonky volume potentiometer ^_^; )
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acrocosm wrote:
ok completely ignorant electronics noob question:
i'm doing the mod atm. i just opened a hole to fit the socket. it's this one. which pin is L and which one is R and ground? I would thought the long one is ground, is it? or is it just for screwing it to whatever? also does it matter if i solder L on the pcb to R on the socket?
and based on my last question, one is L one is R anyway (in general not for the mod specificaly). What it the point of knowing which one is which??
thnx
sry if my questions are ridiculus but i know nothing at all about that kind of stuff. i just have surgeon hands and i'm good at crafts ^^
.
edit: nvm i figured things out and i did it successfully ^^
Hey man, i'm gunna use the exact same jack. Which points were which in the end? If possible do you have a pic?
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![]()
Plug in a cable and look where which points go. That's what i have done, when i had to figure it out.
Last edited by varia vaku (September 18, 2008 1:09 pm)
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